CHATTING WITH MARISA MU

Where functionality, craftsmanship and original design meet, you will find Marisa Mu's vibrant and mesmerising bags and clutches. The thoughtful Sydney-based designer packs careful handiwork and unique technique into each item, using a studio-based process to create each 100% Italian cowhide piece. Having collaborated with a number of creatives and working in Melbourne Fashion Week, Marisa's journey is one to pay close attention to.

Tell us about your background in design and how you first became inspired to start your line;

I always knew I wanted to be an artist when I was a little girl but wasn't sure what creative direction I would eventually undertake. After finishing high school, I was adamant I wanted to be working within the textiles industry and after studying a degree within Design at COFA - my love for pattern design and working with the tactile quality of leather became a true obsession. That was a turning point for me when I made the connection between the love I have for colourful abstract patterning and the unique nature of leather skin. Playing with colours and textures and the changing nature of leather is what inspired me to undergo my current practice of creating unique colourful leather goods that are proudly Australian-made. I also knew from a young age that I was not going to be the type of person that could live a life of routine where I worked in an office doing the 9-5 for the next 40 or so years. Starting my creative practice enabled me to channel my energies into something that was giving me a sense of purpose and fed my creative soul and sanity. I see creativity and art as a therapeutic practice for me and I have overcome plenty of personal hardships because I turned to what I love most - creating art. I believe too many of us don't take that leap of committing to do something for ourselves - that is the core underlying reason behind why I decided to just bite the bullet and start my own line. 

Your designs are quite a playful take on elements like shape, texture and colour - tell us about your creative process, and how your designs manifest; 

My creative process is very organic and revolves predominantly around colour. The power of colour and the way in which hues and contrasting colours create an abstract wonderland is what I strive to achieve within my work. I chase the feeling of knowing I have created a wonderful colour combination and then allow the colours to bleed within one another and create their own special story. Working with leather is amazing as the skin itself had its own story - a past life that is now undergoing the process of becoming recreated and then forwarded to a new forever home. I use premium Italian cowhide and the beautiful textures make for a perfect contrasting canvas for the fluid aesthetic of the patterns. It is about creating sentimental pieces that hold layers of beauty and wonder.

Is there a specific piece from your collection that is your own personal favourite? 

I go through phases and each design has held title of 'favourite' at some point. I am currently in the 'Smokey Camo' phase as the colours are a bit more muted from the usual bright and bold patterns. It's understated but still very much a statement piece. I will be releasing this pattern as a Bucket Bag style by the end of the week which is very exciting!

You place a particular emphasis on functionality and practicality as well as style in your products; tell us about your vision to incorporate both aspects in your work;

Leather goods are seen as a long lasting investment. They stand the test of time due to the tactile and durable quality of being a skin - the colourful artworks are a reflection of how I perceive what is around me - colourful beauty. I want to implement my love for colour and pattern with simple silhouettes and bags that hold your daily essentials. I want to keep the bags simple and to not be excessive - it is about being a canvas for the artworks that we integrate within our daily lives. I strive to create long lasting works of art that we choose to carry with us. Something that brightens our days but also hold a key role of protecting and holding our valuables. It is a simple vision but a deeply soulful one. 

If your label was a song - which song would it be? 

It would be 'True Colours' by Kasey Chambers. I believe the spirit of my brand revolves around being someone that is individual, strong minded and colourful. I want my brand to be an embodiment of who I am and to empower others to be a statement maker within their everyday. To show your true colours, and to not be afraid to do so. 

CHATTING WITH JOANNE T.

Jewellery design grad Jo Tan has taken the internet by storm with her refreshing, tribal-influenced take on nose jewellery. I was lucky enough to chat with Jo about her label Joanne T.  to find out more about the fascinating Central Saint Martins graduate and her intriguing debut collection.

Tell us a bit about your artistic background, where you’re currently based, and how you came to work with jewellery.

I graduated from Central Saint Martins, London last summer. Currently I am based in Malaysia. Since [I was] young, I have always been interested in objects that interact with the human body and I believe art and design are one of the ways that I could express myself without any restriction. During my year in Foundation studies, I was allowed to try out different design pathways. Jewellery design is among one of the subjects that I tried out and I found that I enjoy craftsmanship. Thus, I decided to pursue this field. 

Your graduate collection’s title, “Not Your Average Beauty”, lends itself to ideas regarding identity and the value we place on beauty conventions - tell us about the thematic direction of your work, and what you most would want the public to take away from your work.

My works are concept driven and my design development uses a topical approach. My design revolves around the idea of "In jewellery I ensure dialogue". Using minimal and subtle design, I create visual impacts, conversation and interaction through or with jewellery. 

Your nose cuffs have garnered considerable attention on the internet, and were covered by Vogue France. What was your design process like for these avant-garde pieces, and what motivated the idea behind your elaborate take on nose jewellery in particular?

While I was working on the collection, I was interested in the topic of beauty and plastic surgery. I notice that it is a huge trend, especially in Asia where I come from. This then made me start to research plastic surgery and experiment with different structures and shapes that could be placed on the face. The nose was chosen because it is one of the most common facial [features] for plastic surgery. Thus, the creation of nose pieces emerged.

How important has social media and an online presence been for you to establish your name in jewellery - or in wider terms, fashion?

Both social media and an online presence have really helped me in exposing my works to any possible audience out there, since information can be easily accessed and spread through the internet these days. 

You incorporate classic stones, diamonds and pearls into your pieces. What was your process like in sourcing quality materials and elements to put together your creations?

When it came to sourcing materials and elements for the creations, I spent time in both research and talking/meeting people from the jewellery industry to gain information and knowledge. The opportunity to study in London and travelling around different parts of the world have also allowed me to gain relevant information and knowledge in material sourcing.

Tell us about where you see yourself moving forward from here - continuing jewellery, or maybe expanding into other areas?

Currently, I am working on developing my own brand and establishing a client base. I look forward to collaboration opportunities with people from a different design background. Jewellery would be the core in my design career, however, I am always open to any new opportunities. 

Photographer: Zhonglin
Stylist: Yii
MUA: Alicia
Model: Andrea B